Thursday

A Summary:
                                               
Honey for your wounds
Pole dancing!            
Streets will make you feel brand new

If you are paying attention (and you know what to give back) New York will always give you what you need. Sometimes this gift may not feel like a gift, but pay attention. Let it play. 
 

I’m on my way home from a bad rehearsal. I am playing a character plagued with anxiety. A character obsessed,  panic prone. And I’m not buying it. I’m not buying myself.  
Frustrated, I shove the script in my purse and pull out another script I’m working on, Titus Andronicus.
I only glanced at the woman I’m sitting next to as I got on the train. I have an impression of silk, flyaway hair , some awkward marriage of color and pattern. 


There’s a rule about train interaction.  If you want to observe/ engage/ spark a metromance with someone, do not sit next to them.  Across, adjacent or standing in the door-well are infinitely better options.  It is more than a little alarming to feel your seatmate turn to look at the side of your face.
 
I’m somewhere in Act II; some sacrifices made, some gore abounding and I start to hear this sniffling, these sighs. The woman next to me is crying. She is trying to pull her tears back inside with great, violent inhales, droplets spreading over the open manual in her lap. She is fanning her face with her hands.

“How’s the play?” she asks abruptly.

“Hm? Oh, it’s good. I mean, it’s Shakespeare, so it’s pretty good.” I turn to look at her.

“I’ve never read – have you read it before?” Tears streaming down her face.

“I have, yes.”

“I’m sorry, I’m just. I’m having a panic attack right now. Yeah, it’s. I’m. I just need to talk so. I hope you don’t mind.”

“Oh, no. Not at all. Talk away.” I notice I am trying to make my voice level, calming. And I am studying her behavior. I am taking her in like I might play her in the movie. She is wearing several sweaters at once (crochet, cotton, cashmere) all hanging at different lengths, a silk skirt, socks over tights under cowboy boots, a quilted bag in her lap. She looks just this bohemian side of lunatic. She is probably a few years older than me, shocks of grey at her temples, a spit of freckles across her nose. Warm brown eyes. She could be my sister.

“I have this peppermint oil because sometimes it helps to, you know…”, she gestures with churning hands in upward sweeping motions. “Usually I use lavender because, well. But I tried the peppermint today and it’s… I can feel it on my face??” she asks and I suddenly realize I’m being asked an actual question. She’s really asking me if I understand, or maybe if I can see it on her face. I nod, as evenly as possible.

“I put it under my nose and it’s. It’s burning. And I can feel it just above my eye and every time the air hits it’s like. It’s like I’m on fire!? Like there’s a fire above my eye??” And suddenly, she is Madeline Kahn and I am watching Mrs. White at the end of Clue (The flames! The flames on the side of my face!).

“Oh, oh no. I’m sorry”

“Yeah. I mean I don’t think I’m going to have a bad reaction or anything.” As she says this, a compendium of terror flashes across her face. She is imagining a series of ‘bad reactions’. She cannot stop. She checks my eyes. I blink, evenly. She exhales relief. “It just feels... Anyway, thank you. Thank you for letting me talk.”

“Is it the train?”

“Yes, sometimes the train and sometimes it’s something specific. Today when I got on there was like this really bad smell. Like farts. Like lots and lots of farts and really bad men’s cologne and I just. Well, I get these panic attacks but I carry these oils with me because I accompany women during the birthing process and sometimes it helps… to, you know, calm them so I can talk them through it.”

She tells me she’s a doula, that she’s been doing this for about a year. I ask about her training, tell her I have a friend who is studying this. She tells me she works at a community center in the Bronx with expecting teenage moms who might not have the money or the support they need. I ask what brought her to this life and she breathes in a whole new way. She tells me about the women in her family, that she comes from a long line of women who know how to support each other, that her great grandmother brought awareness to the birthing process when she refused the ‘twilight sleep’.

“Did you say the ‘twilight sleep’?”

“Yes, the twilight sleep”, she repeats. She has a little lisp and it sounds distinctly like ‘twilight sweep’ when she says it. I have this vivid image of her tidying up in the moonlight.

“What is that?”, I ask, fascinated.

She tells me that women used to be given this drug that would not take away the pain experienced in childbirth, but would take away their memory of that pain. This is possibly the most terrifying thing I’ve ever heard. And though I try not to betray my fear, I know I do. My face always betrays me. And my efforts to be the calm one, the even keel, are disrupted. But then, something odd happens. I see her register my disturbance and it eases her. This is what she needed. She needed this role reversal. I play it up. I ask a lot of questions. I let her be the expert.
The train stops at 145th and she says, “Thank you”, touches my arm and breezes off the train. I watch her shoulders drop an inch as she moves up the platform, entirely calm.

.................................................

It’s a Friday night and I stop by this French place on 9th Ave. to pick up a friend’s credit card, accidentally left behind. I mean to grab the card and head toward the theatre (to see Richard II on trapeze!), but the smell of garlic and roasting vegetables and something about the eyes of the host makes me stop at the door and ask for a table. I take a seat by the window and order a ratatouille and goat cheese crepe and a glass of white wine. I sit there for an hour. Every muscle in my body lets go of its tensions one by one. I can feel myself loosening, like untying knots in a rope to let it reach the water, soak up from the fray.

There is a bench out front and from my vantage point I watch this incredible series of reunions, rendezvous and meetings between strangers. A little old lady in a pink hat laughs with her young, gay companion and his bevy of pit bulls. A little girl wearing a T-shirt that says “Art Is Healthy” puts on a show for her parents and their friends. Two single, older men, a family, a group of women are all greeted by name, shown to their regular tables.

I feel like the stretch of sidewalk outside this restaurant, just the fifty feet from the curb to just north of the doors of this place, have slowed down. Just this little piece of New York has noticed that it is a warm and beautiful Friday evening and wherever one might need to be can wait a moment.

I take the sprig of rosemary from my plate, put it in my pocket and walk out into the warm night. I step beyond these fifty feet and everyone is moving at their usual harried pace, the sound of traffic returns, a woman with her head down veers wildly, clips my shoulder. But I don’t mind. I have brought the spell with me. Those fifty feet are mine. They are in me.

..................................................

Saturday morning I walk down 28th Street between 8th Ave. and Broadway, a stretch that I have only heard non-New Yorkers call the ‘Garden District’. I think to New Yorkers it’s just… Chelsea. The ‘Garden District’ is in New Orleans. The sidewalks are crowded with flowerbeds and canopied with greenery, an urban jungle. I forget that I am walking parallel to a street choked with taxis and angry people. I whack a man in the chest with my yoga mat and he just smiles at me.

I find the address I’m looking for and a middle-aged woman opens the door for me, says good morning. Three more people arrive as we wait for the elevator in this cold, industrial lobby. The woman says it’s too bad about the graffiti and I notice for the first time what looks like  could be Yevtushenko’s autograph in red on the glass of the door.

Upstairs, we walk into this incredibly peaceful yoga studio. A woman with colorful mandalas tattooed on every available joint of her body, big blue magnolias over her kneecaps and orange roses on her elbows looks at me with no nonsense eyes and asks if I know my curvature. I tell her yes, I have a right thoracic somewhere in the 30’s, a smaller compensatory left thoracic higher up and a left lumbar. She immediately likes me and I can tell this is a thing hard won.

I enter this room. Women in their seventies, fifties, thirties and a few teenagers. One twelve year old who had the school screening last week, her mom looking more anxious than she does. A couple of men. There is a woman who cannot put both heels on the ground, her body is so twisted, her hips so misaligned. Each step a spring followed by a thud and a warm, open smile on her face. And there are women who have a more slight curvature, more like mine. You can see how they have trained their bodies toward balance. I catch my reflection in the mirror. I look delirious, surprised. There are tears in my eyes.

We do this class together; a series of poses, stretches and exercises designed to alleviate pain, create better alignment and increase proprioception. The teacher with the mandalas makes sure to show us examples in each other’s bodies and being able to see what is happening in my body by looking at another person’s spine is incredible. I am filled up, overwhelmed.

I walk out into this breezy summer morning back into the corridor of green on 28th street and I am taller, I am breathing differently. I have ease. And then I get on the ‘1’ train with a rugby team and several hundred other screaming fools. I get off at Columbus Circle and descend the escalator into the madness of Whole Foods. I put the basket above my head like I’m bringing water home from the oasis just to make myself smaller, more maneuverable for these absurd little aisles. I find myself staring at a wall of honey, so many options. I hear this voice behind me.

“This one right here is the best, if you want to know. Let me tell you.”

I turn and see this tiny old lady. She is among a rare breed of New York women, grossly wealthy and eccentric. What she has on probably represents several thousand dollars worth of clothing but she is wearing so much of it at once that if you did not look closely you would assume she was a bag lady. She has a scarf over her head and enormous tortoiseshell sunglasses. She tips them down a bit and says,

“Believe me, honey. This stuff is amazing.”

Yes, she calls me ‘honey’. I look at the 10 oz. jar that looks like something from an old world apothecary and at the price tag which says $31.55.

“It’s a little expensive, I think”

“Everything this company makes is just gold”, she says. She is clutching the jar and stroking it with moth hands. I can see through the whites of her fingernails.

“You know, you can even put it on your wounds”, she says. She spits on me a little as she says this.

“Hmmm. …okay.”

“The market’s down, sweetheart. I mean, I’m
poor and I’m buying it.” She turns, laughing, to the woman standing just behind us who I have assumed is her friend, or someone just waiting for us to get out of the way so she can buy some honey. I turn and look at her and realize she is wearing a Whole Foods apron and carrying a basket. She is looking at the rich old moth with patience. She is a personal shopper. She holds the basket out so the lady can drop in her jar of honey. I walk away.

Carrying my heavy bag of groceries in one hand, I run down the stairs to catch a train, just barely making it through the doors before they slide shut. I look up and realize I’m on a ‘D’ train. (Shit.) I have no idea where the ‘D’ even goes. I mean I know it goes express to the Bronx and that’s about it.
  We are careening past stops that I recognize.

A man in his late sixties is doing a kind of pole dance a few feet from me. He is thrusting his hips in a jerking motion and punctuating each thrust with a high pitched grunt; “Uh!”(thrust) “Oh!” (thrust) “Ooh!” (thrust)

He launches into a song about how a man should treat a lady right. How a man who can’t support his family is not a man. How a man better not lay a hand on his lady. He is directing most of this at me and I want to say,

“Dude. I am not your audience. I am not a man. I’ve got no lady to mistreat. And I bought these groceries.”

I’m trying to find a way around him so I can see if any of the maps on this train have not been ripped down or graffitied over, but he has me hemmed into a door-well. He is pointing in my face now, occasionally throwing in a fancy spin, or an awkward bow.

I decide I don’t care where the train is going. Wherever it goes, I’m going with it. I might as well watch the show.

By the time I make it home, my shoulders are in my ears, my neck is rebar. All good I’ve done myself, revoked.

I lie on the hardwood floor with a glass of water.
 We are about to have a house party and there is much to do.  I continue to lie on the floor.  I have ‘Empire State of Mind’ in my head and have for weeks.  I let it play.  I think about the cupcakes I’m about to create with my $2.99 honey.   I let it play.


In New York, concrete jungle where dreams are made of
There’s nothing you can’t do, now you’re in New York
These streets will make you feel brand new

Big lights will inspire you, let’s hear it for New York, New York, New York




Some things I saw and ate and loved:

Big Bambu! This incredible structure on the roof of The Met (the best place in New York already) was designed by two photographers and built by mountain climbers... so, people who know about aesthetics and tying the fuck out of knots but not a lot about building, well, anything. And the result is a chaotic mess of bamboo that is utterly delightful. However. They have just begun the process and only phase one is complete. The structure will continue to grow through... October, I believe. You have to go on a guided tour and you will definitely be frustrated that you can't swing through the branches like a wee monkey, but.. the breeze in the leaves and the perspective on the city is not to be missed.

Best Worst Movie: at Village East Cinemas (E. 12th and 2nd) extended another week through the 29th of May! I have seen this movie 3 times now – at the SXSW world premiere in Austin, at the Rooftop Films series in Brooklyn last summer and last week for the official NY theatrical release/partytime. My dear friends Katie Graham (DP/Editor) and Andrew Matthews (Editor) made this movie… and they are amazing. Whether or not you have seen Troll 2 (and you should maybe put on your party pants and your schlock helmet, visor down and see Troll 2 immediately) this documentary about it is fantastic. GO SEE IT.  


Richard II: (Mon 5/10, Wed 5/19, Fri 5/21 @ 7pm, Sun 5/23, Mon 5/24 @ 7pm) at The Tank (354 West 45th Street) with Sonnet Repertory Theatre and Matchbook Productions. http://www.matchbookproductions.org Vince Nappo. I say again, Vince Nappo. I love your crazy face. I got this wonderful e-mail from Vinnie reminding me that years ago when he was trying to decide whether or not to go to grad school he asked if I had suggestions for pieces he should use. I told him he should do the worms/epitaphs/ of comfort no man speak monologue and that someday he would play the role. And yes, he got into grad school and yes, I am a genius. GO SEE THIS EVERYONE. RICHARD II on TRAPEZE!  
The Moth: GrandSlam at the Highline Ballroom http://www.themoth.org This was amazing. The wrong person won. Those judges were drunk! But …so much fun. And great stories. Also the host, Dan Kennedy, is a dreamboat. And by ‘dreamboat’, I mean greasy, dark-hearted weirdo who I wouldn’t want to touch, but I’d totally drink a beer with.  

Yoga Union: (W. 28th and Broadway) Yoga Center for Back Care and Scoliosis.  

LeGrainne: (W. 21st and 9th) French, but in a good way.  

Frankies 457: (457 Court Street –Cobble Hill, Brooklyn) Adorable back patio on a gorgeous Sunday morning with the indelible Josh Beerman and his wife/hurricane of joy, Ms. Nicole Boote-Beerman and the unstoppable Jess Smith. I had the sweet potato and sage ravioli in a parmesan broth. Not even to be believed. Yes, I said broth. And yes, I lifted the plate and drank the last of it from the bowl.  

Tile Bar (E. 7th and 1st) Divey. Cheap. A place to sit. Perfect.

Veselka (E.7th and 2nd) Ukrainian soul food. What? You heard me. I had blintzes with blueberry. At 2 in the morning. My late night dining companion had yogurt and honey. And a chamomile tea. The waitress made fun of him.



Saturday


A Summary:

New York, I love you, but you're bringing me down.
Santa is boring
This is where the drama is!


At four years old, all I wanted from Disneyland (after the Dumbo ride) was “It’s A Small World (After All)”. Which was closed for repairs. Indefinitely. I was devastated. For ten minutes or so. And then there was ice cream.


In my imagination it was a place of intricate, mechanical tininess; cogs and wheels clicking together with whispery precision. There were ropes and pulleys and tiny mailboxes. Gondolas, little working chimneys and drawbridges; all things I was obsessed with as a child. Years later, I would try to build a miniature chairlift out of the dials from one of my mother’s old microscopes and some bailing twine.

It's a world of laughter, a world of tears
It's a world of hopes, it's a world of fear

This is how this song begins. I mean, I have known this song most of my life, but in that way that when you ‘know’ something you disregard it completely, I had never really heard these words.
How utterly ominous.
Welcome to Disneyland kiddo, it's a world of fear.
………………………………………….

In the New York City subway system, the trains sing as they leave the station. They sing the same three notes each time. Three long, aching notes. The very same three notes that begin Leonard Bernstein's "Somewhere (A Place For Us)" from West Side Story.
Standing on the platform, you hear the conductor’s clipped voice: “Stanclearth’doors”. Then two clinical chimes (reminiscent of the NBC theme), the doors slide closed, the brakes exhale, the train lurches into motion and you hear these three, slow notes:

There's… a … place...

The fourth note careens into a shrill departure, followed by a warbling two note vibrato that picks up it’s pace with the train and eventually thins into one high hum as the train speeds away underneath the city.

I am not the only one to have noticed this. The progression is, in fact, an exact match, the intervals following this pattern:

1, minor 7, 6. (There’s A Place) and then the warble: major 7, minor 7, major 7, minor 7… and…hum.

This open-ended phrase, like a disclaimer. This is the contract we sign every morning, each night. Every time we cross beneath the city.
There’s a place….
Uh huh, uh huh? For who? For me? For us?
Nope. There’s just a place. That’s all we’re admitting at this time.

………………………………………………..

Walking through Bryant Park, I stop to take a picture of the fountain, which has frozen solid mid-cascade. I’m trying to get a shot of these twin boys leaning on the edge, both wearing puffy, camouflage jackets without their mom noticing. I do this a lot, take pictures of other people’s children. The kids don’t care… it’s those pesky moms.
Anyway, I’m lining up a shot and this large, middle aged black man on the other side of the fountain, also in a puffy jacket, carrying a consumer grade digital SLR yells,
“No, no, no. Miss!”
I dimly suspect he may be talking to me.
“Not over there. No, no. Take it from here. Right over here.”
I come around the fountain.
“See? See.”
I do. I see from his perspective. The arc of the water and the blue glass edge of the building behind form a perfect tangent.
“See, do you see it?”
Mm. MmHmm.
“This is it.”
Aha.
“This is where all the drama is!”
……………………………………………..

At Grand Central Station in the transit museum, they put up this moderately elaborate model train every Christmas. The concept is a mini-Manhattan, with the southern portion being a somewhat literal representation of the real thing and the northern end, right around where Inwood would be, being the North Pole/ Santa's workshop.
Groups of adults huddle around this miniaturized version of their everyday world. The children are more interested in the things you can buy. They walk past Santa toward the walls with the retail displays; little train cars and ‘RR Crossing’ signals that light up. Action figures in striped conductor hats.
I am transfixed by the model. I want to take it in slowly. I try to narrow my vision and look at one tiny detail at a time so I don’t ruin the next part for myself. I also realize immediately that it’s not all that impressive and I want to fend that off. I’m not ready to be disappointed.
A woman in a blue hat hails an approaching yellow cab, a cafĂ©’s open sign lights up a styrofoam snowdrift, a train stops for an exact and familiar amount of time on a raised track where the Highline Park is now, a man applies a new advertisement for Lionel Trains to a billboard, his hip hinging in an alarmingly natural way.

I lean down and realize that there is this whole other world down there, underneath. The subway is running below the city, open on one side to the plexiglass so you can see passengers waiting on the platforms and tiny subway maps on the walls, like a window to the stomach of a cow. I feel like I have been let in on some secret I will never tell. I am four years old. This is my small world, after all. and I can see my self. Myself now. Standing on the platform waiting for the train.

.....................................................................

There's so much that we share
That it's time we're aware
It's a small world after all

……………………………………………………………………

Of note:
3 things that made me cry this week, cause I’m a sap:
A fucking car commercial. Yes, that’s right. A car commercial. For the new Nissan Leaf. A fully electric car. It’s not the commercial that got me. It’s how hard won this achievement has been. How long time coming, really too late, still not readily available this option has been. Just made me burst into tears…

This clip from the Olympics, the father of a Norwegian alpine skier watching him win a gold medal after an accident on this same run.

This… ahem.. You Tube video (oh god). Specifically, the moment 1:43 seconds in when the miserable looking puffy lady in fuchsia sees the crowd coming down the stairs and her pinched up little face just … expands. Her hands fly up. She is overjoyed.

Some things I saw and heard:
Ages of the Moon by Sam Shepard at the Atlantic. He is at his old tricks, Sam. Old angry drunk men isolating themselves in the desert with their whiskey... And the inevitable shotgun making it’s set-destroying appearance suddenly somewhere in the third ‘act’ . Somehow, this trope never bores me. I rely on it. And with the same old tricks, he gets to me… again. Oh, Sam. I love your toothless face.

Lauren Ambrose and her band!, The Leisure Class. By a series of misadventures, followed by more serious misadventures… Jess and I found our way to Joe’s Pub to see Lauren Ambrose (yes, the Six Feet Under girl) and her gypsy jazz band. They did some original songs (the best ones) and Lauren rocked a little ‘Brother Can You Spare a Dime’ before their unexpected encore of St. Vincent’s ridiculously beautiful and catchy ‘Marry Me’ and then…New York , I Love You’ (But You Are Bringing Me Down), LCD Soundsystem which almost brought me to my knees. I felt, quite literally, like I’d been punched in the mouth. (see: later misadventures…)

The Moth (Live Storytelling Performance) at City Winery. Stiffs: Stories of the Nearly and Dearly Departed. Great experience. Way more interesting than most theatre I’ve seen lately. People telling true, well crafted but not performed stories. The funeral director with the Long Island accent is my new boyfriend.

The Great One-Man Commedia Epic at the Harman Center for the Arts in Washington D.C. Matt Wilson. You beast. What a fantastically silly, well structured, gleefully performed piece of theatre with which you are tearing up the town. Nice work, my friend.


Bonus! Re: Bernstein vs. the MTA:
Yes, the trains sing a Leonard Bernstein song. Now, did Bernstein get his inspiration from the trains that run underneath the 'West Side' (most of the trains that produce this tune serve the UWS of Manhattan) or did the MTA design trains to perform this daily tribute to his work?? There’s a real debate about this chicken, but the answer seems to be… it’s just a fluke, a fortuitous accident of friction. Here’s an article from
The New York Times. As one MTA worker (who was once an usher for the show) put it when asked if this tribute was by design:
“Don’t talk to me about West Side Story”

Mini-Bonus #2:
A clip of a newer
Disneyland commercial that uses ‘It’s A Small World’. After which, a sampling of the comments on You Tube (“Has me welling up every time it’s on!” and from ‘canadianbaconbro’, “this commercial makes me feel all wrm and fuzzy inside each time i watch. its like a true feeling of Disney”) lets me know that I may be the only one who finds this ad absolutely TERRIFYING.


Tuesday

A Summary:

Christmas is super gay
Rod. Will heal. All.
Today is the day


I am sifting through dusty wool skirts at goodwill, every one of which is pilled up in knobby tufts like the surface of an old lemon and the zippers are broken. The radio is on, loud. They are still playing Michael Jackson songs in this never ending tribute we seem to be riding. It's Billy Jean and I'm dancing a very small dance that is only evident below the knee and somewhere mid-torso. The DJ comes on with that hollow, dripping voice that all DJ's have, like they've weighted down their soft palate with little, lead sinkers.

"Good afternoon, New York! Thought I'd break out a quiz for you all on this unseasonably cold day. Something for you all to STEW over... In New York City there are 3.8 million... what? 3.8 million... what? in New York City. Call me here at (212)KING-NYC if you think you know the answer and we'll give you Two. Free. Tickets. to the Michael Jackson movie coming out next week, 'This Is It'. And now. More. Michael."

All DJ's also drop full stops into their sentences for. emphasis.
I'm Bad comes on and I find a skirt with a working zipper. I try it on over the skirt I'm wearing and look at this person in the mirror wearing two skirts with her head cocked to one side, as you do, you know, for scrutiny. What the hell, it's only $6.50.
I'm in line looking at lone gold earrings and necklaces with broken clasps and other 'impulse items'. I reach for this watch. This rubber strapped, 14 year old boy, Transformers watch, circa 1985. I crack elbows with a guy in line in front of me, about my age, also reaching for the watch. He smiles at me. I nod at him, "Go ahead". He turns it over and the price-tag says $25. For a broken, rubber watch. And some sentimental hipster idiot living in Williamsburg would happily pay twice that. I laugh. The guy holding the watch laughs too, puts it down..

"Welcome back New. York. City. 3.8 million what, you ask? That's right ..um..Scotty ..Milbrand from Chelsea. 3.8 Million Single People in New York City. That's 3.8 Million. Single. People. living in New York right now. So get out there people! Let's get that number Dooowwwn. And on that note..."

Single Ladies comes on and I step up to the register.
"That will be $6.50, Miss", the large black lady behind the counter says.
I glance over my shoulder as I'm pulling my wallet out of my purse. The front door of the shop swings closed, the elbow of the watch guy just disappearing out of sight.
"Oh, honey, he was gay as Christmas, don't you worry nothin bout it."
I hand her a ten and laugh,
"Yeah. yeah."
"And you gonna look good in that skirt."

.................


Every day. This voice. This large, African American, clearly grinning woman's voice:

”wow. Wow. Ladies and Gentlemen, what a byootiful day we are having today. Just a beautiful day. I do hope you are getting out there and really just enjoying this day, Ladies and Gentlemen. This is your downtown A, your DOWNtown A Train and this here is your conductor speaking. I'd like to remind you to keep your belongings safe at ALL times. Do not display your valuables, your cell phones, iPods, or other EElectronic devices. Stay aware, stay alert. IF you see something, say something ladies and gentlemen. We, here at the MTA, are looking out for your safety, and you, Ladies and Gentlemen, need to look out for yourselves And each other.. Now, have a safe, have a wonderful, have a grEAT day. Today is the day, ladies and gentlemen. ToDAY is the day you can make a difference. Today is the day.


.................


I'm in a shop on 96th and Broadway. I convince the woman at the counter to give me the $40 dress for $15 because all but two of the buttons have fallen off. I also convince her to take all the buttons off the last one of the same dress and give them to me. She is at work with a tiny pair of scissors and I am congratulating myself, trying on ugly jackets with padded arms and gold brocade. I’m giving myself quick, burning glances over one shoulder with squinty eyes (you know, for intensity). On the radio there is some kind of contest and the DJ is frothing a bit, gearing up for the good stuff.

Good afternoon, New YORK! We’ve got... Sammy on the line here. Sammy from Westchester...

“Sam”

Oh, right, sorry Sam. We’ve got SAM here on the line. We’ve told him he can pick one person. One person. And we’re going to call that person and tell them they get one dozen roses to give to whoever they like. Now, of course, Sammy- Sam here is hoping that those roses are going to Come. Right. Back. to him. cause he’s picked out his one person and that one person... it’s his lady love, Christine. So, here I go... I’m going to call Christine and find out who she wants to give this byootiful bouquet!... and the Phone. Is. Ringing.

“Hello”

Hi Christine, this is Tony-O from WKRF radio 102.7! How are you today?

“Wuh. I’m great, thanks. How are you?!”
Well, I’m just fine. Thanks for asking. And you are about to get a whole lot better because we. Have a surprise. For you. Today. Do you wanna hear what it is?

“ah.. Yeah.”

We are going to give you One. Dozen. Roses. And you can give those roses to anyone you like! You just give us a name and a brief message you’d like to include and we’re going to deliver those today! How does that sound?

” Great?”

All righty. Now... do you have someone in mind, someone spec...

“Yep. Yes, I do. I want to send them to my friend Susan.”

To... your friend Susan. O-kay! All right then. You’re going to send them to your... friend Susan.

“Yes. Oh this is so great. I’m totally going to surprise her.”

All right, Christine. You sure you don’t have a man in your life who would.. uhh.

“No, I want to send them to Susan. I was supposed to meet her tonight, but this’ll be way more fun. Are you ready for the message?”

Ah. Yes, yes we are. What would you like the message to say?

“Okay, I’d like it to say: ‘Buy your ticket to come visit and pack your bikini cause... I’m moving to HAWAII!’ And can I get HAWAII in all capitals with, like, three exclamation points?”

Uh, yes, yes absolutely. We’ll go ahead and take that full name and address for you off air, so hang on the line but Christine, we have another surprise for you today. We have a very special person in your life on the line with us today, someone who picked you out to be our contest winner today, do you want to know who that is?

“Ok.”

We’ve got... SAM. Here with us today.

“...”

He uh, he picked you out today to receive One. Dozen. Roses. Because you’re a very special person in his life and he wanted to surprise you today. Say hello, Sam.

“Christine?”

“... ... “

“You’re... mov... you’re moving Christine?”

“... ... (oh shi[BLEEP], shi[BLEEP], it)

“You’re moving? ... ... To Hawaii? ... Christine?”

“Hi, Sam. Um. Oh, god. Um. I really didn’t. I didn’t want to tell you like this”

“How did you want to tell me? WERE you going to tell me?”

“Sam, I. I’m just. Can we talk about this later?”

“No.”

“Ok. Sam, I. (shi[BLEEP])

“Yes??”

“I. I got a promotion and. I took it.”

“... ... “

“I leave in two weeks”

“Two weeks??!”

“... ...”

“... ...”

WELL. Um, ladies and gentlemen. That didn’t uh go exactly as we... You are listening to W.K.R... F! 102.7 and I’d like to thank Sammy here for uh, participating in our contest.

“Mmm.”

And Christine..stay on the line here for a sec so we can get Susan’s address and send off those flowers.

“Mmmhmm.”

And good luck to you on your new job... uh Good. Luck. To you. Both. ...
WKRF! The music of the life you want! Let’s get back into it now with a little Rod. Stewart singing an old favorite.. “The First Cut Is The Deepest..” Ain't that the truth.. I hope you are enjoying your day today New York! Today is your day and WKRF is your station!

Sunday

July +, 2009

A summary:

Nice work if you can get it
Hawk!
Spite the devil and NY will name something after you

"Minneapolis... you can be a big fish here", my friend sloganizes over a whiskey.
It's his bachelor party and we are in Minneapolis at probably the coolest bar I have ever had the pleasure of getting stupid in and “I live in New York City!” I say, amazed. But here at Nye's Polonaise Room in Minneapolis... there are round, high-backed booths with sparkly vinyl upholstery. There is a second bar surrounding a piano in the corner with a crusty pianist and a microphone for karaoke jazz standards. There is a guy with a saxophone sitting at one end of this bar providing ridiculous accompaniment. My Maker's Mark costs $4... and as if that's not enough... there is an adjoining bar with a great, dance-worthy, live funk band kind of rocking the damn house down AND a patio area with a sassy bouncer ready to light a cigar, eavesdrop on your conversation and eulogize about his establishment . There are karaoke regulars in suits congratulating each other, there's a hipster contingent looking carefully displeased in the back, there's another guy out for his bachelor party with a bowling ball chained to his waist... and there are fabulously drunk and enthusiastic Japanese businessmen dancing with open mouths and fists pumping the air. Their pigtailed, schoolgirl uniformed escort looks at me over her shoulder and widens her eyes with amused exasperation... Inga steals her and makes her dance with us. The Japanese businessmen have clearly never been so happy.. ever.

We take over the place. We make ourselves at home.
We dance. Inga sings. We buy Chandler lethal sounding drinks. Ben tries on a... garbage bag? he finds in the gutter.
We walk home at 2:00 in the morning (the bars close at 2!), it takes about twenty minutes, along the Mississippi, over the bridge. We pass one person. One person! I flash a picture of him because he is such a novelty... and he is completely unsurprised.
"Oohkay. (he drawls out with Minnesotan length). Have a good night, now."

This last March I was in Austin, Texas for the SXSW film festival. Texas looks like Spokane, WA... sprawling and rusty. Boxy, brown buildings with gaping black windows stand next to faux, old-worldy americana, over-elaborate government buildings in white marble with frothy moldings tacked on next to big, reaching churches.
I had been in Austin ten minutes and I could feel a home building inside me. Looking out on the wide sidewalks, the bright, dry air. Home... not here necessarily, but somewhere like here. The man behind the counter making my coffee would be an awkward first date and eventually be my neighbor, and then my good friend's boyfriend. The Mexican Food/ Rug Cleaners out on TX Hwy 83 would be my favorite place to slum it up on the weekend. I'd buy a car, paint my house in bright colors like a taco hut. The lone star belt buckle I would wear would start out being ironic but would soon leave it's shadow on every pair of my pants. I'd say 'howdy' like I meant it until I did.


Home. [hohm] noun. A house. adjective. Principal or main. adverb. Deep; to the heart verb. To go or return... home.

The arrow struck home. Homing in on the truth, the target. Now we’re in the home stretch! Homebody. Homeland security. Home plate. Home spun. That really hit/drove it/ nothing to write/ until the cows come/ make everyone feel at/ eat you out of house and home free/ made/ less/ town/ room/ page/ field advantage/ brew/ is where the heart is.


Home is where you imagine yourself most... yourself.


You make yourself at home.


In Tompkins Square Park yesterday among the smack addicts, the musicians and the hipster dog-walkers... I saw this scrappy old hawk tugging at a branch in a tree. He was mangy, big tufts of feathers clumped up on his back. The branch came loose and plummeted to the ground... with the hawk in tow. He didn't let go. Just hit the ground, rearranged his grip and flew off again low to the ground, struggling under the weight but determined. He'd found the thing and he was damn well taking it for himself.


Of note... so much!:
The website for Nye's Polonaise Room is one tan page... no links, no pictures, just one plain, beige field that says simply "The Best Bar in America" with an address and phone number.
Chinatown Candy Store/ Travel Agency. ???(Mott? Elizabeth St.?)I don't remember what it's called and they wouldn't let me take photographs but wow. Anywhere I can book a flight to Hong Kong while eating candied shrimp deserves a mention...
Pure Dark. (Bleecker. W. Village) The people here are so nice! And it's their job to give you free stuff, like chocolate covered blueberries and cardamom cashews... amazing.
Murray's Cheese Shop.(Bleecker) Sopressata flatbread and cheese straws. Mmm...

Art Bar.(West Villageish) Great back room. Dark like the dead of night with low-slung couches and a horrible 'last supper' mural with an incongruous bunch that includes Frida Kahlo, Richard Nixon and Jim Morrison.
Alice's Teacup.(UWS) This place is magical. I bit into a warm strawberry/chocolate chip scone and started weeping. A chemical reaction. Like someone had flipped a switch. Alycia made me keep crying until she could take a picture. Ahh, friends.
Superfine.(DUMBO) I went here for brunch on a Sunday. The BEST huevos rancheros I have ever had. And the live bluegrass band, "The Mayor of Goodtimes and the Bleeding Hearts"... adorable... if a little immediately on top of our table. The guy on the upright bass was obscured so that you could only see his face. He had a distracted, slack jawed countenance and was staring out the window while he played... I kept thinking 'wait, who is that guy behind the band? Is he fixing something?'.
Miriam. (Park Slope) Holy shit. I love brunch. Delicious, unique Israeli food. Get the burekas - amazing. I have to go back for the highly lauded Mediterranean crispy dough.
Cafe Luluc. Wonderful French brunch place open weekdays - take a lesson, world.
92Y Tribeca. NY premiere of Little Dizzle was here. Nice environment and staff. Crappy sound system.
Rudy's. (Hell's Kitchen) Divey dive bar. The doorman was so drunk he had to lean on me while I was getting out my I.D. Free hotdogs! Classy joint.
Vol de Nuit or just The Belgian Beer Bar. (NYU) I had a Maredsous (whoo! dark, creamy deliciousness) and a Leffe blond.
San Loco. (LES) Catfish Guaco Loco, Catfish Guaco Loco, Catfish Guaco Loco... yeah. Matt Wilson, I love your crazy face.
Yakitori Taisho.(East Village). Super legit, late night Japanese deliciousness. It's crowded and rowdy, the chairs are uncomfortable, the decor is bizarre... the chefs are in your lap. Wonderful.
Typhoon Lounge. (East Village) Another late night Japanese place. We managed to piss off the staff, coming in late with a big group, one of whom smuggled in some fried hot dogs like an asshole. Delicious sushi, curried beef, sesame chicken.
Fette Sau. (Williamsburg) Total carnage. One wall is illustrated with different cuts of meat, carefully labeled "Shank" and "Cushion Shoulder". The taps at the bar are made from rusty, old meat cleavers. The brisket was out of this world as was the potato salad. And the bartender was very helpful in picking out an amazing Pennsylvania Hirsch bourbon. I also tried my friend's more traditional Kentucky-born Black Maple Hill bourbon... pretty tasty, but a little on the light side..
Spuyten Duyvil. (Williamsburg) Belgian beer bar that looks like 'the company store' in a Disney old west with rude bartenders and a wonderful large and ivy-lined but weirdly quiet back garden.

Which brings me to this historical bonus...
Spuyten Duyvil.
Belgian beer bar in Williamsburg, Neighborhood in the Bronx, Creek joining the Harlem River and the Hudson... from the Dutch ‘spinning devil’
Re-imagined by Washington Irving, the legend of Spuyten Duyvil goes something like this.... Peter Stuyvesant, then governor of New Amsterdam, sent his trumpeter, Anthony van Corlear, to warn the Dutch settlers that the English navy was about to invade. A storm was brewing when Anthony reached the northernmost tip of Manhattan, about 10 blocks from where I sit in lovely Inwood. He stood on the banks and called for the ferryman to take him across. When the ferryman did not answer, he "vapored like an impatient ghost upon the brink" and then dove in with his trumpet held high, deciding he would swim across if he had to. Half way across, the devil reached up and took hold of his leg, pulling him down into the waters. He struggled and fought and just as he freed himself he sent a blare from his trumpet into the night. But the storm was too strong and the shore too far and "in spite of the devil", he sank to the bottom and drowned.
On a stormy night, it's said, on the banks of the Spuyten Duyvil, you can still hear Anthony's trumpet blowing "louder than the wind".

June, 2009.

A summary:
Fathers vs. Daddies
Outkast/Shakespeare
Strawberry Shortcake isn't always sweet


In New York, the good lies right on top of the bad.
There is not enough lateral space to set them side by side.
It is a city of juxtapositions, incongruities, unexpected reveals.

On the 1 Train I overhear this conversation between two teenage girls, one of whom had just lost her father:

"I'm really going to miss him. They took his body, you know?"
"They couldn't have waited a little while longer? At least until you got home?"

Across the aisle two other teenage girls are listening to an iPod; one earbud per girl. They are bobbing in time and singing:

Daddy I'm so sorry, I'm so s-s-sorry yeah
We just like to party, like to p-p-party yeah

Bang bang, we're beautiful and dirty rich
Bang bang, we're beautiful and dirty rich

Days later on the same train two young black guys get on the train and stand near the door. They look nervous and sweaty like they just got away with something. The one nearest me has his hand inside his jacket like he's reaching for his wallet. The other has his thumbs tucked in his jean pockets, his hands keeping a fluttery beat on his thighs. Their jaws are set tight and their eyes are reflective. They look angry and kind of... hungry.
They ride in silence for two or three stops, staring at the window like there's some vista hidden that only they can appreciate.
The one standing next to me shifts. When his hand comes out of his jacket, it's holding a little book with a surprising delicacy.
"Hey, Man. You know when it says:
"Hate the evil, and love the good, and establish judgment in the gate:
it may be that the Lord God of hosts will be gracious unto the remnant
of Joseph."
"Yeah, man?"
"What's that about?"

At Times Square between the N/R/W and the 1/2/3 there is a coveted corner for musicians. There is always a small crowd gathered to watch either the performer or the large screen television in the store window just to the right which is usually playing an Ultimate Fighting championship.
Sometimes, there's a tiny Indian man sitting hunched at a keyboard, his head hanging off his frame at an alarming 90 degree angle, his arms above his head in a Thriller Dance shrug so he can reach the keys.

If you saw him from the back you would think he was headless.

Arranged carefully in a semicircle around him there are these dancing electronic dolls that stand about a foot and a half high wearing pigtails, pink plastic cowboy boots and little gingham dresses. They are stomping to the beat, their little mouths opening and closing like they're gasping for air. All this is scored with the Doris Day version of "Perhaps, Perhaps, Perhaps" and the Indian man's addition of a techno-pop beat.
If you happen to catch one of those rare moments when someone slows down long enough to put a dollar in his hat, you will see a most amazing thing. This crumpled, ashen man will raise his sunken, toothless face and smile with a radiance to singe your heart.

I'm walking down the street thinking about surprise, judgement, defiance of expectation... listening to my iPod when Outkast's 'Gangsta Shit' gives way to Henry VI;Part Two:

"...Just to pull it out, point it at the ground and make a nigga wanna dance
Now what that be for, you're on that reefer and on that Tupac
In front of them oooh wops, trying to show out, that's the hoe route
Talking loud, talking bout.. that's gangsta shit"

3 second crossfade into...

"(soundscape- a whistling wind, a rousing heraldry and the distant sounds of a battle)
The gaudy, blabbing and remorseful day
Is crept into the bosom of the sea;
And now loud-howling wolves arouse the jades
That drag the tragic melancholy night..."

Laughing out loud, I don't notice the enormous man on the sidewalk ahead of me who's just walked out of his three martini lunch. He stumbles backward and steps squarely in the middle of my foot with one crisp, business shoe heel. I feel the little bones retreating and the tears rushing to my eyes. I am laughing, crying, grimacing with pain. A cab races by, lays on the horn, kicks up a puddle. The man apologizes. I wince at him. Understanding, but unable to speak, I limp away.


Of note:
Deserving honorable mention in the contradictory persons of NY category - I saw a woman get on the A train wearing a full scale Strawberry Shortcake outfit and carrying a trumpet. She sat down, pulled out a tiny mirror, re-applied her freckles, adjusted her cleavage... and started swearing to herself. And spitting. Wonderful.

John Vanderslice at The Music Hall of Williamsburg - Photos and words by Dominick Mastrangelo for venuszine.
This man is adorable. He moves like he's still flirting with his adolescence, bashfully shrugging his guitar closer to his wrinkled T-shirt. He sings with a long-distance focus in his eyes, but when he stops between songs he is absolutely there for you and you only.
Opening act, The Tallest Man on Earth, was like watching someone being born every few minutes. Each time he inhaled, we were relieved... and riveted for what might be next. There's something truly alarming about this performer, and a performer he is. He can simultaneously hold a look of absolute innocence and discovery and in the same moment seem to harbor the mischievous antidote.
His encore 'Moonshiner' sent me back to high school and the discovery of Uncle Tupelo's March 16-20 1992. Sitting in the parking lot in Jameel's car singing at the top of our lungs, we'll be late for Mr. Bruce's choir class, but we don't care. What an incredible record. Black Eye still gets me right.. there.


Patrick's. I had the pleasure of introducing two out-of-towners (L.B.! and Inga! and soon... Alycia!) to my neighborhood dive bar this month. Now, when I say dive, you say 'how dive?' and I say, 'you don't even know.' I love, love this place. Somehow I ended up doing time-steps with Pamela (the bartender) and Drake (her Vegas brother)whose family used to own a tap studio in the neighborhood, hearing the life story of a Deadhead, dispensing relationship advice to total strangers, fending off free Irish car-bombs and yet again having the conversation over the check that goes:
"How much do I owe you?"
"I don't know, how much do you think?"

Cafe Asean ">Cafe Asean. Incredible food, cute back patio.


Gus Place.
(between 6th and MacDougal on Bleecker) Great wine, great food (except for the zucchini fritters). I will be back here.

Cafe Arte. (106 W. 73rd UWS) Delicious, affordable prix fixe meal. I had the goat cheese ravioli in vodka sauce, the spinach salad, the hazelnut gelato. The Sangiovese was lovely and the staff was hysterical. We sat next to this fantastically dorky teenager taking his grandparents out for dinner and a young dad out to dinner with his 4 yr. old who kept asking the nearby diners why they hadn't finished their food yet.

Alice's Teacup. I can't wait to go back here. We stopped in for directions (twice) and the guy behind the counter was ridiculously charming and adorable. I was helpless to resist a large (salty!) chocolate cookie just out of the oven.

Magnolia Bakery. Of SNL's 'The Chronic (What?!)cles of Narnia' fame. Amazing red velvet cupcake. The uptown location at Columbus and 69th.

Awash. Great Ethiopian food. Ridiculously bad decor.

Bali Nusa Indah. Excellent Indonesian food. Banana crepes!



Theatre:
August: Osage County (The Music Box) Phylicia Rashad was fearless and wonderful. Who knew Mrs. Huxtable could be such a drug- addled, volatile lunatic. Also wonderful- Amy Morton playing Barbara. My only complaint - the fights were unbelievable. Ha! I just looked up who choreographed them and it's the president of SAFD... a guy who not only gave me my certifications but drank beers with me and my friends on my birthday last year- sorry, Man... but still....

Twelfth Night (The Public in Central Park) I spent the first 20 minutes being grouchy about Anne Hathaway... 'what's this little starlet know about Shakespeare... oh! she is slaughtering that speech... blahblah nonsense, and then... I decided that she was utterly charming and kind of a joy to watch. Audra McDonald? Incredible. And Hamish Linklater absolutely stole the show with (my dream role) Andrew Aguecheek.
Also. A raccoon walked up on stage halfway through the first act.
A huge raccoon. Sidled up and took his light.


South Pacific (Lincoln Center) The overture begins, the lights swell, the stage rolls away to reveal the full orchestra... I look over at Inga and she at me. We are eight years old in my parent's living room, the record with Mitzi Gaynor and Rosanno Brazzi on the cover is on the turntable and we are over-dramatic, we are melancholy, we are dancing around the room like fools... We are thirty-one in the front row mezzanine at the Lincoln Center and we are both tearful and grinning.

Waiting For Godot (Roundabout) What a singular experience. Sitting with my long lost and found Inga Aesoph.
"We can still part... if you think it would be better".
No, no, I don't think it would better.





Monday

Tuesday, May 5th (Manhattan)

A summary:

Blood!

What ‘free’ is worth

Comparative Cannoli

Attendees: The long lost, happily found, Ian Bivins. My nemesis, always, Jakob Holder. Gabriel Baron, the face hands of Trojan.

On Tuesday afternoon I went to the Bumble and Bumble University to get a free haircut. At my place in the assembly line of salon chairs, I stare at myself in the oblong mirror. I look tired and a little terrified and I can't stop thinking about this past January. I signed myself up to participate in a medical study on jet-lag. After spending the night in the Manhattan lab to determine we were 'normal sleepers' they flew twelve of us to France on Rolling Stone Magazine's private jet. We stayed in a mental hospital in the French countryside for four days with electrodes and multi-colored wires tangled over our faces sleeping in 20 minute increments throughout the day and drooling on our French nurses. Sitting here, waiting for my stylist, I have a familiar conversation with myself. Is this worth it? What kind of trust is this? Should I run?

My stylist, Pam, shows up blustery and reeking of cigarette smoke. Pam is from Harrisburg, PA. She is pushing fifty and wearing a Flashdance worthy get-up with artful holes to display her studio tanned shoulders in bulging little ovals. She has a horrible haircut.

Pam is 'excited about this' and wants me to know how much 'fun this is going to be'. She stabs me in the inner ear with a press-on nail.

We have our 'consultation' during which she sneaks her "so about here, then?" indicating finger ever closer to my scalp and I inch it back down toward my shoulders.

The class gathers to discuss the next steps and get acquainted with the straight razors they will be using to cut our hair. Not three feet away from me, I hear Pam say: "Wow. I'm totally scared". I turn around and catch the instructor's eye. She is saying "there's nothing to be scared about" to Pam, but she is looking right at me... "did you hear that?". Yes, yes I did.

Pam comes back to my chair. She is chatty and alarmingly jovial.

“Don’t be scared” she says.

“I won’t be if you won’t be”, I say.

She starts in on my hair. With decision and something all too close to haste. The instructor comes by and suggests calmly that Pam might want to “breathe.” And then she puts one hand on Pam’s cutting hand and says “Stop. Stop. Just take a breath. Take your time”. Pam stops. Takes a second. I hear her forcing a long, whistling exhale through tightened little lips. And then she picks up the razor again and gradually picks up speed. A moment later, she inhales quickly, says “I’ll be right back” and leaves the room.

I sit there for four or five minutes. In the mirror I catch a figure running through the room behind the mirrors on the opposite aisle. I glance down and see a clearly defined footprint on the floor, long twisted hairs caught in the treads. And a little pool of blood.

Pam comes back. She is flushed. She has a gleam of sweat on her brow and a bandage on one finger where she has closed the freshly sharpened razor on her own hand. She is kind of laughing, apologetic, but her face is gray.

The bandage is throttled around her finger to stem the flow of blood. The tip has gone splotchy white and purple and Pam is doing quick little worried beckons between cuts. The instructor comes by and suggests she might loosen the bandage so she “doesn’t lose a finger”. Pam coughs, agrees. She starts picking at the bandaid, inches from my face. I turn my entire body to the side and close my eyes.

“Oh, are you squeamish?”, she says. Like maybe I’m being unreasonable for not wanting her to bleed on my face.

“Heh. Yep, I guess I am”.

For the rest of the haircut Pam waits for approval from her instructor for every move. I am there for almost three hours. I am there until all the other girls have left. I pick up my feet so they can sweep the hair out from underneath, mop up the blood.

Pam finishes up. She has missed her lunch break.

“I need a drink”, she says.

I am given an evaluation form. Was your haircut: 1. fantastic, a welcome change 2. satisfactory, competent and workable or 3. unfortunate, a disaster. Check the box.

I check #2 and consider before starting the comment section. There is room for a lengthy paragraph. I want to start with something true, yet generous. Pam is clearly having a shit day. I shake ink into the pen:

“Pam was very nice.... ( I begin)

And then she returns, breathless, with the form suggesting the $50 of products I’m supposed to buy. She ‘borrows’ my pen ‘for a sec’... and never returns.

I sit there, grinning for a minute. Do I ask for another pen? How important is it that I include; “but she mauled herself” in my comments? I get up, ruffle my (satisfactory, competent and workable) hairdo in the mirror one last time, wave to Pam smoking on the balcony and walk out.

This, this is what you get for free.

Of note:

Malbec. Apparently this variety of wine had it's orginal life in France but now is primarily produced in Argentina. I had a lovely chat with a member of the staff at P&J's Wine shop (love this place) at Broadway and 204th? She was very helpful but I didn't buy her recommended wine... because I'm cheap.

The Dublin House (79th b/w Broadway and Amsterdam) This reportedly used to be a certifiable old man bar. It is no longer. The hipsters who are 'slummin it' have found this place out. However... there is still a decidedly old mannish, pay phone in the back, Irish-accented bartender sort of charm to the joint. We even witnessed a fight while we were there.

Jake's Dilemma (Amsterdam b/w 80th and 81st) A college bar. With a happy hour that may dupe me into returning. The back room is what might happen if Masterpiece Theatre were filmed in the common room of a dorm.

I meet Jakob for a drink on Wednesday night. We talk about self without audience and building forts in the woods and what the hell we’ve been up to for the last 4-5 years and how it’s possible that we are still the same. Standing at the bar ordering us drinks, he brushes his hair out of his face in a way he has always done, a way he may always do... and I know that I will know him forever. We laugh about “gathering” as euphemism for female genitalia, drink another, snuff all our burned bridges in leather couches and house red. The sky opens up. A wall of water. We share an umbrella to the subway... he lets me take it with me.

Sushi Mambo (Bleecker and Cornelia) I meet Gabriel here on Monday night to celebrate his Trojan gig. Excellent sushi. Incongruously accompanied by the 'Godfather' soundtrack. We had the 'couple's combo' which is really the only affordable way to stuff your face with ridiculousness. Also. they really need to let go of the fact that the Uma Thurman/ Meryl Streep shitheap of a movie 'Prime' was filmed there. We. don't. care. Take the posters down.

Caffe Palermo. (Mulberry & Grand, Little Italy) There is a sign on the front of this place that claims "THE BEST CANNOLI ON THE PLANET EARTH" in over-confident neon... which of course makes me dubious. However... their cannoli? The best I have ever tasted. The. best. The shells are fresh and crispy. And the cream has a hint of anisette. Delicious.

The Lortel Theatre. (W.Village/ Bleecker...) What a charming little theatre. Thursday I saw an invited dress of Coraline, music by Stephin Merritt of the Magnetic Fields. David Greenspan is otherworldly.

Music Hall of Williamsburg. What a great venue...just large enough to lend some scope, and small enough to afford some intimacy. I saw the Loney, Dear show on Tuesday. I love a crazy, cocky Swede who can croon with abandon and what’s more get the audience to croon with him. Photos and review by Dominick Mastrangelo, who dragged me (willingly) along.

Yummy Noodle. (46 Bowery, Chinatown) Very authentic Chinese food. Maybe a little too authentic for me. 'What does that mean?', you ask. I'd like to forget that meat has... bones... much less blood vessels and eyeballs. There's no forgetting this at Yummy (sinews and cartilage and just slaughtered frog) Noodle. It's delicious! but it will confront you. if you're a puss like me, think twice... and go anyway.

Rocco's (243 Bleecker ) I had another (inferior but still tasty) cannoli on their adorable, enclosed back patio. I walked off and left a newly purchase bottle of wine and didn’t realize it until I was at about 125th St. I looked them up and called at about midnight. Someone answered and said, yes, of course, they would hold my wine for me until I could come pick it up. This restores my faith in everything.

Theatre. I saw three performances this week for a grand total of $0. Did I mention that I am cheap? Sunday I had the pleasure of seeing a presentation of work by the Margolis Brown Adaptor’s Company featuring the increasingly lovely Ian Bivins. Some vigorous work... made me want to move to upstate New York and have a waterfall in my backyard. And Ian, so good to see you.

Music. Tuesday, after work I saw St. Vincent at probably the last live, in-store event the Virgin MegaStore at Union Square will ever have. They are liquidating their stock, closing their doors. Somehow not sad at all. The mix is all off and her guitar doesn’t come in until the second song... but when it does, it’s ridiculous. This freckly, curly-haired thimble of a woman is a monster.